Croatia: The European Gem That Stole My Heart

I have a confession: I almost didn't go to Croatia. I had heard it was "too touristy" and "overrun with Game of Thrones fans." I went anyway, and I am so glad I did.

Croatia is one of the most beautiful countries in Europe. Full stop. The Adriatic Sea is a shade of blue that doesn't seem real. The old city of Dubrovnik is so perfectly preserved it feels like a movie set. The islands are quiet, sun-drenched, and utterly magical. And the food — fresh seafood, local wine, olive oil that will ruin every other olive oil for you — is extraordinary.

Here's my honest guide to Croatia.

Dubrovnik: The Pearl of the Adriatic

Dubrovnik is Croatia's most famous city, and the hype is completely justified. The Old Town is surrounded by medieval walls that you can walk in their entirety — about 2 kilometers — with views of the Adriatic on one side and the terracotta rooftops of the city on the other.

My tips for Dubrovnik:

Walk the walls early. The walls open at 8 AM, and if you're there when they open, you'll have them nearly to yourself. By 10 AM, the cruise ship crowds arrive and it becomes very busy.

Take the cable car. The Mount Srđ cable car lifts you 400 meters above the city for panoramic views that are simply stunning. Go at sunset.

Explore beyond the Old Town. The Lapad Peninsula has beautiful beaches and a more local atmosphere. The village of Cavtat, 20 minutes south, is charming and much less crowded.

Day trip to the Elaphiti Islands. These three small islands (Koločep, Lopud, and Šipan) are accessible by ferry and offer a peaceful escape from the Dubrovnik crowds. Lopud has a beautiful car-free village and a gorgeous sandy beach.

Be honest about the crowds. Dubrovnik is one of the most visited cities in Europe, and in July and August it can feel overwhelming. If you can visit in May, June, or September, you'll have a much better experience.

The Dalmatian Islands

Croatia has over 1,000 islands, and the Dalmatian Coast islands are among the most beautiful in the Mediterranean.

Hvar — The glamorous island. Hvar Town has a beautiful harbor, excellent restaurants, and a vibrant nightlife scene. The lavender fields in the interior are stunning in June. Take a boat to the Pakleni Islands for secluded swimming coves.

Korčula — A quieter, more authentic alternative to Hvar. The Old Town is remarkably well-preserved, and the island is famous for its white wine (Grk and Pošip). Marco Polo was supposedly born here.

Brač — Home to Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn), one of the most photographed beaches in Europe. The beach actually changes shape with the currents — it's fascinating.

Vis — The most remote of the main Dalmatian islands, and the most unspoiled. Vis was closed to foreigners until 1989 (it was a Yugoslav military base), and it retains an authenticity that the more touristy islands have lost.

Split: The City Built Around a Palace

Split is Croatia's second-largest city and one of the most fascinating urban environments in Europe. The entire Old Town is built within and around the walls of Diocletian's Palace, a Roman emperor's retirement home built in the 4th century AD.

People live, work, and party inside a 1,700-year-old Roman palace. It's extraordinary.

Split is also the main ferry hub for the Dalmatian islands, making it an ideal base for island hopping.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

If you're traveling through Croatia, don't miss Plitvice Lakes — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most beautiful natural landscapes in Europe. Sixteen terraced lakes connected by waterfalls, surrounded by forest, with water in shades of turquoise, green, and blue that seem impossible.

It's about 2.5 hours from Split and 2.5 hours from Zagreb. Worth every minute of the drive.

Food and Wine

Croatian cuisine is a beautiful blend of Mediterranean and Central European influences.

Must-try dishes:

• Peka — Meat or seafood slow-cooked under a bell-shaped lid covered with embers. Order it in advance at a local restaurant.
• Crni rižot — Black risotto made with cuttlefish ink. Sounds alarming, tastes incredible.
• Prstaci — Date mussels, a Dalmatian specialty
• Pasticada — Slow-braised beef in a rich wine sauce, served with gnocchi

Croatian wines are exceptional and largely unknown outside the country. Look for Plavac Mali (a bold red from the Dalmatian coast), Pošip (a crisp white from Korčula), and Malvazija (a light white from Istria).

When to Go

May and June — My top recommendation. The weather is warm, the crowds are manageable, and the lavender is blooming on Hvar. Prices are lower than peak season.

September and October — Also excellent. The summer crowds have thinned, the sea is still warm from summer, and the light is beautiful.

July and August — Peak season. Beautiful weather but very crowded, especially in Dubrovnik and Hvar. Book everything well in advance.

Croatia exceeded every expectation I had. I think it will do the same for you.